Small and slightly irrelevant post to this website, but thought i’d give it a shot anyway!

For my own AW11 mr2, i bought a job lot of parts, i have kept that bits i need for my car and some carpets for a friends car. The rest is no use to me, although i hate throwing out hard to get parts, i have little storage space so cannot keep them all for ever.

If there is anyone out there looking for any mk1 mr2 parts then give me a comment and i will see i have it in stock and give you a price that would be hard to beat! Other than that i will give you my contact details if that is easier and can sort out a deal from there on. Would be a shame to scrap so many parts so looking to sell them on to as many mr2 enthusiasts as possible! Many thanks.

Drive Shifty – MR2 Brother from Youtube

Drive Shifty

Well its been around 6 months for me exploring the online world of marketing and the “car scene” niche and now is time to expand and carry on with world domination.

A YouTube channel is something I’ve always been told would be useful to visually show the work that goes on here at sw20 modified HQ. But… as I live hundreds of miles from the main workshop and the majority of the mr2s we deal with and look after, its unrealistic to get enough content myself from the work. So I have teamed up with a great friend and colleague that already has his own YouTube channel ” DRIVE SHIFTY ”

Any regular visitor to this site will recognise his car as it regularly appears in the photos and the workshop. Currently we plan to both have separate individual content and also share content for Drive Shifty and sw20Modified, so keep an eye on both to catch everything that goes on! All goes right and big things should be on the way!

So while i sort out the job of properly linking the website and YouTube channel together, please click the link below and check out Drive Shifty.


Any ideas to help us create exciting new content let us know and comment below!

How to Read OBD Codes – mr2 sw20

Engine management light

Overall Toyota MR2’s are actually quite reliable but of course they have their problems as any car does. They have a very early OBD system but can manually be read. I’m sure some of you may have seen a post about common problems with SW20 mr2s but I wrote that more than information to someone thinking of buying a mr2. This post shall have a little more depth and aimed at someone who already owns a mr2 and is looking to solve a problem with their car.

How to Read Fault Codes

Fault codes (otherwise known as diagnostic trouble codes) are generated when receives and abnormal or not possible signal from a sensor. These codes are remembered and can cause the EML (engine management light) to illuminate. Each code represents each problem signal from each sensor, but as the mr2 was built for different markets, some different models have a few different codes.

Modern cars use what is known as “OBD2” which allows you to connect a diagnostic tool to the OBD port and read each code from the tool itself. Older cars do not have this but some have a similar set up.OBD scanner tool

How to read fault codes

The fault codes can be extracted from the ecu by linking to terminals TE1 and E1 of the diagnostic connector (offside rear part of the engine bay) to each other, whilst the ignition is completely off. If you don’t known which terminals these are there is a diagram on the cap of the connector, if you have lost this, leave a comment and I will explain which terminals are TE1 and E1.

Then switch the key to ignition 2 (the second position or one before cranking the engine). This should cause the EML to flash, if this flashing is continuous and steady then, good news! It means you have no known fault codes.

The fault codes exist as two numbers (e.g 39 or 57). If you do have one of these it will cause the same light to blink a certain number of times, relative to the number, then a pause then blink again for the next number. As it is possible for more than one fault code to be stored at the same time it will give an extra long pause before flashing again for the next fault code.

Watching and counting the flashes allows you get the number of each fault code and then look up what each one means. Not all car models have the same codes that mean the same thing, but after some research on the internet I have found a rough guide to most fault codes for the mr2.

Some Code NumbersEngine Management Light

Codes — Item

2/31 Inhalation pipe pressure meter

3/14 Ignition indicator (except cars with DLI, DRD)

3/14 Ignition indicator (for cars with DLI, DRD)

4/22 Water leak indicator

5/21 Dx indicator

6/12-3 Tachometer

7/41 Throttle position sensor (cars with linear sensor)

8/24 Inhalation temperature sensor

9/42 Speedometer

10/43 STA indicator

11/51 Switch

11 +B (except cars with step motor type ISCV)

11 +B (for cars with Step motor type ISCV)

23 Evaporator temperature indicator

31,32 Air flow meter (except cars with carman whirlpool air flow meter)

31 Air flow meter (for cars for carman meter)

32 Atmospheric pressure meter (7M-GTEU)

33 ISCV meter

34 Circulation pressure supply

31 Circulation pressure supply

35 Turbo pressure sensor

52,53 Knock indicator (sensor)

54 Intercooler

01 Data communication

These may not all be correct but just what I could find after searching for the codes online to use as a guide.

How to delete fault codes

Once you read your fault codes and hopefully later fixed your cars problem, they can be deleted so the EML will no longer light up. To do this you can either remove the EFI fuse for a few seconds from the fuse box near the battery or even disconnect your negative cable from the battery for a short amount of time. This should reset and get rid of any old stored codes.

Any help or questions?

Please feel free to leave any comments, questions or advise 🙂






Performance Exhaust Reviews – Toyota MR2 SW20

Mr2 Turbo

Another exciting upgrade for your project car!

A fresh new exhaust can completely change the sound of your car from how loud it is to any volume and the tone as well, not only this it can change the look of your car and even give you a fair bit of performance increase and even efficiency. This is definitely one of the most exciting but simple upgrades you can do to your car.

Things To Think About FiMr2 Turborst

Before I start writing up on a specific product I just want to say, that like most other aftermarket parts, there’s no real right or wrong part that applies to everyone.

Some one looking for a really loud big diameter exhaust or someone just wanting an exhaust to get the most power out of their car will be looking for a different exhaust to an owner who just wants a nice looking stainless steel system that looks nice and adds a small sporty sound the engine. So make sure you know what you want before you buy, especially as these can cost up to £700 in some cases.

Another factor to look in to is were you want your car to be in terms of performance later on. Performance exhausts are designed to have fewer restrictions than standard systems, this mostly comes in to effect at high revs or if your engine has been modified to try to produce more power so is pushing out more gas, this is were you will really see the benefits of a performance exhaust system. There should still be performance gains with a stock engine and performance exhaust but the difference should be smaller and mostly at time when the engine is under high load or high revs. This is something to bear in mind.

Remus Rear Silencer


Oddly and embarrassingly I had never heard much of Remus before.

Turns out that they are the worlds number one when it comes to manufacturing performance exhaust systems and export to over 60 countries worldwide, so this is no small cheap manufacturer for sure!

A little bit of background on Remus and the product they sell for the MR2 SW20. They were established in 1990 so have been about a while now and done well in that time.

The system they supply for the mr2 mk2 n/a is;

TUV approved (basically this is a European auditing and certification body that ensures the products meet certain regulations)

Build to high standards using high grade stainless steel

Uses heat-resistant black ceramic paint

2 x tailpipes 92x78mm dimensions

Designed in a purpose built acoustic room to test the sound of the exhaust on each car they use

The fitment of this exhaust is for n/a models and have options to allow you fit this product to vehicles that have catalytic converters or earlier models without. (Check before you purchase in the details)

Place to buy! HERE

Stock Exhaustmr2 turbo red


As I realize you could be reading this but actually just looking for a replacement for an old stock system or even if your current exhaust is just too loud and you want to go back to stock, I shall include a stock replacement product here.

Nowadays you can still pick up a new stock exhaust system for less than £200, making it the cheapest option by far. The example I have linked to in this post here is compatible with all n/a 3s engine cars and should be an easy direct fit.

Despite being a stock system, the standard MR2 exhaust does give a sporty, clean look with twin 4.5cm pipes, one at each side of the car with a quiet but still giving a sporty hint to the sound as well.

This system would not normally last as long as the stainless steel options, but with the proper care this could easily last years and years before any corrosion.

The Best place to buy! HERE

Mongoose Cat-Back MR2 2.0 N/A


Another shiny after-market performance product. This Mongoose exhaust system comes in slightly cheaper than the Remus system.

Although cheaper this is still a serious performance product, manufactured from high quality T304 stainless steel and – reading from the product sale page, comes with Mongoose’s lifetime guarantee.

As stated this is a “cat-back system” which means it is everything after the catalytic converter, in the direction the exhaust gas flows.

Pipe diameter 51mm

Tail pipe diameter 2×3″ Slash cut / 2×3.5″ rolled in

On my first ever mr2 (a 1989 mk1) I actually bought a mongoose system for it, although obviously different from a mk2 if its anything to go by, I can say it seemed like a very good quality product and was louder and sportier than stock but nowhere near as loud as “boy-racer loud” type exhausts if you get what I mean.

The Best place to buy! HERE

Before I Endmr2 n/a blue

Just a quick thing to say, make sure understand what model of car etc you have properly before purchasing any as well as the fitment of the product you wish to purchase, check all the details first!

Any more advice on what you guys think I should write next please leave a comment or other exhausts you think I should include on this post let me know! I could only find affiliate links for these 3 which was actually a surprise and much harder than I thought to come across, otherwise I would have liked to include many more manufacturers to compare and in more detail.

Thanks again 🙂 Feel free to leave a comment





The MR2 mk2 – Reasons to buy one?

My first post! So the best place to start, why should you choose the mk2 mr2

There has never been a better time.

Starting production in 1989 and an ending 10 years later, these cars now ageing gracefully. The popularity and long production run means that getting a hold of one is not too hard though, a fair condition n/a model can be picked up from £1000 with the more desireable turbo models now fetching around £3000.

On the other side though, the early ones are now 29 years old. Meaning a lot of them will have their share of problems, the main killer being rust and with that, many are being used for donor cars or scrapped. This does mean though that the lucky models than have been looked after and maintained over the years are finally starting to creep up in value, especially the turbo charged models. These are now coming on for classic car status and can be considered an investment. Why spend £20,000 on a dull box on wheels and lose £3000 each year in depreciation alone when you could buy an MR2 turbo (a car that when new could out accelerate a Ferrari 348 TB) and likely sell for 50% extra in only a few years?

Smiles per GallonToyota mr2 sw20

You may have heard the reviews saying that the sw20 mr2 is the least fun, least sharp and heaviest of all the generations. Which yes, is a fair point. I have driven all of them, the mk1 has an amazing driver feel to it, you know exactly what’s going on as you drive and the mk3 which yes does lose some feel due to power steering but other than that is simply amazing around some bends. So saying the mk2 is not as sharp or responsive as them does not mean it’s a bad or numb feeling car in any way.

The second generation may be the heaviest but all in all, it’s still a fairly light car, especially considering with the higher power, they can compete with the likes of Supras or Skylines in many ways, both of which weigh around 200kg more.

Being mid-engined, well-balanced and only a few driver aids, they are still definitely “drivers cars”. What other choice can you get if you want a reasonably quick, fun mid engined car without having to spend tens-of-thousands of pounds?

Even an n/a 3s-ge can be quick, higher powered revolutions came with around 173hp in the UK. That’s a lot of power for an old 2.0 engine even for todays standards and for the mid 1990s is around twice as much as an average family car! Put that in a well sorted solid chassis and for as little as £1k, i cant think of many cars in that price range that are half as fun.I

Old cars are unreliable?Toyota Mr2 mkii

Nope. Toyota are well-known for the reliability, especially the 1990s. There was a couple problems with early models as every car will have but mechanically you can certainly do much worse!

Main things to look for on them are as with most cars. Timing belt needs replacing every 60,000 miles or 5 years, rust spots tend to be the sills, arches, around the bottom of the doors, if you go for the t-bar (especially) the seals will have a good chance of being worn enough to let water through and into the cabin and with the layout of the engine far from the radiator the cooling systems are more complex than a standard FF layout, so make sure signs of new coolant and a properly bled system are present. Earlier revolutions did have a weaker transmission and developed synchro mesh problems on occasions but as a whole the cars are generally above average for reliability.

If you are the kind of person who is looking to modify and work on your car, don’t be put off by the mid engined lay out. Access is hampered by the engine being in the middle and there being a large storage area behind the engine bay but not an issue worth talking too much about, especially if you have a two or four post ramps at your disposal.

Modification wise, there is a massive amount of parts to choose from so that is not a worry at all! The 3s-ge was used in many other awesome cars like the Celica and Altezza, both of which are also big with the modification scene. Hopefully in the weeks to come you shall see that choice on this very website as well!

The followingToyota mr2 mk2

There is a vast following for these little Toyota almost worldwide and access to information is always available online or even better through books!I

The downside of owning the first and last model MR2 is that when looking for parts / information / online fan groups, you will always get excited and think you have found what you are looking for, then 90% of the time it will be all Mk2’s you have found.

The fan base is huge and although the cars themselves becoming rare now are still a regular sight on the road today, this means you can meet your new friends and discuss with them their own ideas, information and feelings of MR2 ownership life.

What do you think?

Overall, my opinion is it’s never been a better time to buy a fun, cheap, reliable car. With new cars becoming ever more similar to each other and losing character and older classics shooting up in value and near impossible to get a hold of a good example, a Japanese 90s icon offers all you need, a low risk car with plenty of parts and available knowledge around with the reality of appreciating in value.

The mk2 MR2 is not too complex or complicated, not too rare yet still a head turner all with that Toyota badge to show it’s been designed and built properly and when looked after will always look after you in return.





About Stewart



Hi everyone and welcome to my website “sw20 modified”. For years cars have been a massive interest to me, mostly cars between 1975 and 2005 and once I was old enough to drive I went straight to buy my first car, a 1989 mk1 Toyota mr2. (Which I realize is not an sw20).

Being involved with all 3 models of mr2 I developed a particular interest and respect for them. However, finding the correct parts can be frustrating to say the least with all the small upgrades through the production age of the cars and the fact good, clean parts are getting hard to come by now-a-days.



I have created this website to help MK2 MR2 owners find good quality parts as well as for advice in the differences in parts between the various revolutions and the 3s-fe, 3s-ge, 5s-fe and turbo-charged models in the hope of making their ownership of these awesome cars easier and simpler.

Also, with the creation of this website I hope the new owners of these cars also gain much useful information of the cars they own and optimize how useful the money they have spent becomes.



When I purchased my first MR2 I would sometimes spend hours online looking for which part I needed, usually to find one, place an order and find their was several variations that either were not listed or not available so would not fit my car. This is what I hope to minimize.

If you ever need a hand or have any questions, feel free to leave them below and I will be more than happy to help you out. All the best, Stewart


Stewart Richardson

Founder of sw20modified